Front Evo Brembo Brake Install

DAMN...those are huge! After I finished the steering install it was brake time. Dennis helped out too (chassis parts are his area of expertise after all). I went with Girodisc rotors and pads. They look fine to me, we'll just have to see how they perform.

I added the SPL Stainless Steel brake lines to finish off the conversion. Everything bolted right up, no problem. However, after test fitting the wheels, I think I'll need some 5mm spacers to give a little more clearance between the caliper and wheel before I drive on them. Luckily, that's no big deal. The final touch was the matching SPL Stainless Steel clutch line. Hotness.

Z32 Inner/SPL Outer Tie Rod Install

Long day in the garage today and I made some much-needed progress. I started with the steering. A few months ago, I completely disassembled the rack and cut out the piston for manual steering. Before I put everything back together, I wanted to upgrade the tie rods. I chose the Z32 inner and SPL outer rods. Compared to the stock S14 rods, the new parts are much beefier. They should stand up to whatever I throw at them. I can also add spacers between the rod end and knuckle to adjust bumpsteer if I ever feel the need.

Here are the rest of the shots...

Intercooler Piping Progress

I received some fresh parts today at work, and I was ready to start the magic this evening. The FRSport.com box contained:
1) Blitz SUS Power Air Cleaner
2) Greddy S14 Hotpipe
3) Nissan Z32 Fuel Filter ('mo flow than S14)

Unfortunately... I quickly discovered that the Blitz Air Cleaner was the wrong part (meant for an NA S13 SR20DE, not an S14 SR20DET). Called up Mike at FRSport - he realized the mistake on their part (the website lists the incorrect part for the S14) and is working on correcting it. So, 1) down.

The second problem I found was during the Hotpipe install. I'm still missing a 90 degree hose and two clamps, so I'll need to order those too. This is what happens when you order parts without looking at the car first.

Finally, I'll need some fuel-safe rubber tube to finish up the fuel filter install. Also, I spent a little while deciding what to do with the fuel breather system and the rest of the many vacuum tubes still laying in the engine bay.

As good as some intentions are, they just never make it out of the box. Anyways, here is a fresh picture of the Koyo radiator and Greddy front-mount intercooler, which is massive.


Can you find the missing intercooler tube...? Next up: tackling the wiring harness, again.

To Do Before Driveable...

Engine

• Install hotpipe
• Install air cleaner
  
• Attach fuel feed and return lines
• Install downpipe
• Install testpipe and catback system
• Install clutch line
• Fill and bleed clutch fluid
• Check driveshaft bolt torque
• Install spark plugs
• Fill and pressure check cooling system
• Fill engine oil
• Crank over engine without injectors to circulate oil
• Sort out vacuum hose routing (EGR and Canister Control Solenoid Valve, Brake Booster, etc.) 
  

Electrical

• Install and complete wire harness

Chassis

• Install tie rods
• Install front pads and rotors
• Install front brake lines
• Complete brake hard line install
• Install rear brake lines
• Fill and bleed brake fluid
• Order and install steering rack bolts
• Check tire pressure

Body

• Fit and install bumper support
• Fit and install bumper
• Install hood pins

Welcome

New year...new blog. I've tried the website thing before, but I never kept it up to date. My hope is that the blog format is better for me to keep up with.

With work, friends and other various activities, progress on the 240 is always slow. However, due to my moving schedule, I have a new goal for this year:

Driveable by January 30.

Wire Harness Status Update

I finished moving the Relay Box and putting it into place in the main harness.  Almost all of the circuits will be shortened, which is good.  The headlight harness is now down to the bare minimum.  I need a wire-to-wire connector between the headlight and main harnesses. 

Braille Battery Install / Custom Mounting

Well, I needed a battery, but I wanted to keep it as light as possible while being able to drive the car every day.  Braille delivered.  Their B2015 is just 15 lbs, but can power 4-cylinder engine vehicles every day, even in cold weather.  The question was, where should it be mounted?  Engine bay was out (I needed the layout space for intercooler piping).  Rear trunk was considered, but vetoed.  I chose to mount it just behind the passenger seat.  In this position, it's as low as possible (to keep the C.G. down), will offset the mass of the driver a bit for improved weight distribution, and will keep wiring short (you'll hear more about this a bit later).

I opted for the Braille aluminum battery mount for an extra-clean look.  That's nice...

 

(A very satisfied customer.)